weddingwire.com The Evolution of Jewelry Styles: 1860-1920 overlaps
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The Evolution of Jewelry Styles: 1860-1920 overlaps

Updated: Jun 20

The Arts and Crafts Movement (1860-1920)


A Creative Response


The Arts and Crafts movement arose as a reaction to societal changes brought on by the first Industrial Revolution (circa 1760-1830). This era marked a significant shift in industry, leading to a reliance on machines. The Royal Society of Arts promoted industrial advancements, but many criticized this trend. The Great Exhibition of 1851 showcased items that were often machine-made and of poor quality. Critics such as John Ruskin and William Morris believed that these advancements stripped artistry from everyday objects, including jewelry.


In response, the Arts and Crafts Movement aimed to revive craftsmanship reminiscent of medieval guilds. Artisans sought to emphasize handmade items over mass production. They believed that jewelry should be crafted by individual artisans from design to finished product. Their philosophy prioritized design and creativity over material value. This approach aimed to make jewelry accessible for the middle class, but labor costs often raised prices.


The movement encouraged practical jewelry designs, like cloak clasps, belt buckles, and hair ornaments. These pieces were typically simple and modest.


Arts & Crafts Opal, Sapphire, and Pearl Ring. Lang Antiques
Arts & Crafts Opal, Sapphire, and Pearl Ring. Lang Antiques

Popular Stones and Techniques


During the Arts and Crafts era, jewelers favored materials like silver, copper, and aluminum. Gold was often used for accents. Their choice of stones included non-faceted cuts such as moonstone, garnet, amethyst, and irregular pearls. This technique encouraged artists to create unique, baroque pieces by preventing them from reusing designs.


The period drew inspiration from Gothic and Renaissance motifs, incorporating natural elements like florals, insects, and shells. Overall, the Arts and Crafts movement celebrated the spirit of creativity, focusing on the making process rather than just the final product.



The Art Nouveau Movement (1870-1915)


A New Artistic Revolution


Art Nouveau, meaning "new art," emerged parallel to the Arts & Crafts movement. However, it was characterized by glamour, international appeal, and rich expressiveness. This movement arose from a desire to rejuvenate beauty in jewelry after the declining interests of the 1870s. Influenced by the symbolist movement, Japanese art, and nature, it sought to meld artistic compassion with modern aesthetics.


The presence of Japanese goods and ideas in the West increased after Japan signed the Japan-US Treaty of Peace and Amity in 1854.


"In England, the style’s immediate precursors were the Aestheticism of the illustrator Aubrey Beardsley and the Arts and Crafts movement of William Morris." - Britannica

Dragonfly Lady brooch by René Lalique
Dragonfly Lady brooch by René Lalique, made of gold, enamel, chrysoprase, moonstone, and diamonds (1897–98) By Sailko - Own work, CC BY 3.0

At the same time as the Arts and Crafts movement, artists worked to revive craftsmanship and aesthetic quality in jewelry. They reacted against mass production methods that prioritized functionality over beauty. The rise of urbanization and the middle class created a fresh demand for art that reflected contemporary life. Art Nouveau encouraged breaking away from rigid artistic traditions while embracing innovation, individuality, and the beauty of nature.


Popular Stones and Techniques


In this vibrant period, many symbols, such as lotus flowers, found their way into jewelry designs. Jewelers began to gain recognition as artists rather than mere craftsmen. A piece's beauty increasingly relied on its design rather than the material used.


Art Nouveau introduced more symbols and motifs reminiscent of French Rococo styles. The designs reflected a yearning for a more natural lifestyle, disrupted by the Industrial Revolution. Known for its fluid lines and asymmetry, this period emphasized the female form. Although precious metals were employed, the movement favored semi-precious stones, such as ivory, horn, agate, and pearls. Despite its relatively brief existence, Art Nouveau paved the way for the upcoming Art Deco style in the 1920s.



The Edwardian Era (1900-1915)


A Transition of Styles


The Edwardian era, named after King Edward of England, marked the end of Queen Victoria's reign in 1901. This period coexisted with the Arts and Crafts and Art Nouveau movements, but it possessed its own unique style. The Gilded Age created a class of new millionaires who were eager to flaunt their wealth.


"One of the biggest problems in using platinum to make jewelry is that there was no furnace capable of reaching the temperature required to melt the metal." - Lang.

A Diamond and Platinum necklace pendant
A Diamond and Platinum necklace pendant. Image found via IGS. Photograph by Cole Bybee.

Advancements in technology played a crucial role in this era. The invention of liquid oxygen in 1895 enabled the development of the oxyacetylene torch. This new tool allowed jewelers to melt and cast platinum in their workshops, enabling the creation of intricate and delicate designs.


Popular Stones and Techniques


Platinum became the go-to metal for strong yet delicate designs, which characterized Edwardian jewelry. Common motifs included stars, moons, and wishbones, often crafted from an abundance of diamonds supplied by newly opened mines in South Africa. Notable innovations of this era included the Asher Cut, invented in 1902, and the establishment of the first cultured pearl process in Japan in 1905.


The Edwardian era came to an abrupt end with the onset of World War I, drastically altering society and artistry forever. Jewelers left their workshops, and precious metals and gemstones were sold or hidden away, leading the way to the futuristic Art Deco style.


Conclusion


The intricate beauty of jewelry during the Arts and Crafts, Art Nouveau, and Edwardian eras tells a story of evolution in art, craftsmanship, and society. Understanding these periods enriches our appreciation of jewelry as more than decorative items—it reflects cultural shifts, technological innovations, and individual artistry.


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