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The Evolution of Jewelry Styles: 1690-1900

Updated: 7 days ago

French Rococo (1690)


The term "Rococo" derives from the French word "rocaille," which means 'stony ground' or 'rock garden.' This name refers to the seashells that decorated fountains during this era. Jewelry pieces from this period showcased naturalistic designs, curvy lines, asymmetry, elaborate details, and pastel colors.


The Rococo style emerged in France under King Louis XIV's reign. He sought brighter, more cheerful art to replace the formal, religious themes that dominated the previous era. By the 1730s, this vibrant artistic movement spread throughout Europe, reaching Germany, Austria, and Italy. However, England remained resistant, with the nobility favoring simpler and more sentimental jewelry designs.


Ornate brooch with large yellow gemstone center, surrounded by leaf-like patterns. Set against a plain white background.
An early 18th century large central cushion-shaped citrine within a topaz openwork floral surrounded with foil back- Levys Fine Jewelry

Popular Stones and Techniques


The most sought-after jewelry items included buttons, brooches, pocket watches, sword hilts, hair decorations, and, of course, earrings, rings, and necklaces. Traditional gemstones like diamonds, rubies, emeralds, sapphires, and pearls were all the rage. However, as demand for large stones surged, shortages began to occur. This led to the increasing popularity of semi-precious gemstones.


A notable technique that gained traction was "foil-backed" paste. This involved clear stones, crystals, or colored glass being backed with shiny foil. This method enhanced reflectivity and made these pieces appear similar to large diamonds. Foil-backed paste spread to colored stones, brightening them and making them seem more luxurious. The rise of this technique combined with the advent of the Industrial Revolution allowed the middle class to access previously unattainable jewelry.


A Cultural Shift in Jewelry


As times changed, the jewelry-making process began to evolve, mirroring cultural shifts. The Industrial Revolution brought about new manufacturing methods, allowing for the creation of more affordable pieces. This meant that jewelry was no longer confined to the wealthy. It became a status symbol that more people could enjoy.



Georgian (1720–1830)


The Georgian period parallels the Rococo style in many ways. Named after the succession of King Georges (I-IV) from 1714 to 1830 in Great Britain, this era brought about significant changes in society. The first Industrial Revolution introduced new trends and fashions as society adapted to technological advancements.


The Georgian era also saw a notable shift in jewelry usage. As wealth distribution increased and social barriers began to crumble, lower classes embraced jewelry for the first time. During this period, King Napoleon also helped rejuvenate the jewelry trade with his elegant designs. He famously gifted the first known "Toi et Moi" ring (meaning "You and Me") to his first wife, Josephine de Beauharnais. This romantic design remains popular today due to its symbolism and aesthetic appeal.


Gold ring with blue sapphire and diamond on a finger. The pear-shaped stones reflect light, highlighting their vibrant colors and sparkle.
Napoleon's Engagement ring to Josephine, his first wife, in the now popular "Toi et Moi" style- Daily Mail

Transformations Amidst Conflict


With the growing need for funds to combat Napoleon’s forces, women were encouraged to trade their gold jewelry for iron, leading to a sudden surge in iron jewelry’s popularity. This trend continued after Napoleon's fall and remained chic until the mid-1800s. Iron jewelry even resurfaced during World War I.


Following Napoleon's defeat, the Bourbon rulers took control in France, initiating a 'French Restoration.' This movement rejected Napoleon's Rococo influences but doubled down on the lavishness of jewelry and fashion.


Popular Stones and Techniques


The Georgian period saw the emergence of neo-classical styles that drew inspiration from ancient Greece and Rome. Jewelry design shifted towards natural motifs, and pieces often included cameos, intaglios, and engraved gems as romantic stylings became fashionable. Large gemstones remained in demand; however, when they were unavailable, semi-precious stones filled the gap. The combination of colorful gemstones set in gold became known as "l'antique." Both men and women began wearing jewelry more regularly.


"The concept of Romanticism in everyday jewelry can probably be best described by the French poet Chateaubriand, who recalled an experience dining with Marie-Louise, Napoleon’s widow. The poet was surprised to see that her bracelets were not adorned with precious gemstones or diamonds, but rather marble, which had supposedly been chipped off the tomb of the famous Shakespearean heroine, Juliet." – levysfinejewelry.com



Victorian (1830–1901)


As we moved into the Victorian period, both French and British monarchs shifted away from the extravagant styles of the past. Instead, they turned to middle and lower-class success to sustain their rule. The discovery of gold during the California and Australian gold rushes made this precious metal more accessible, which led to a boom in gold jewelry usage among the populace.


Queen Victoria, who reigned from 1837 to 1901, became a significant influence on fashion, jewelry, and trends of the time. Innovations in travel allowed diverse styles from around the globe to flourish. The French occupation of Algeria and the later 'Scramble for Africa’ contributed African and Assyrian themes to Europe, while trade with Japan introduced Japanese aesthetics.


Women in Britain became enamored with foreign styles, and Italy emerged as a hotspot for fashion, leading to a deeper fascination with Greek and Roman inspirations.


Cameo of a naked girl riding on a bat, the girl carries a large feather. Cameo back is a coffee color surrounded by gold metalwork
A cameo used throughout the Victorian Romantic period- Wikipedia

Mourning Jewelry’s Rise


During the Victorian era, mourning jewelry gained popularity as an avenue for remembering lost loved ones. Following Prince Albert's death in 1861, Queen Victoria went into seclusion, dressing only in black and wearing dark stones like amethyst, onyx, and garnet. This somber period influenced jewelry trends, with black and dark-themed pieces becoming more prevalent.


The Civil War, which commenced the same year, heightened people's awareness of loss and grief, intertwining with the rising popularity of mourning jewelry. Silver also became a favored and more affordable choice after large deposits were discovered in Nevada during the 1860s.


Victorian brooch with hair, surrounded by pearls and red gems in a metallic setting. The mood is vintage and ornate.
Mourning Brooch with hair- Wikipedia attribution.

A Shift in Jewelry Trends


Queen Victoria’s mourning period lasted until her death in 1901. This led to increased negative sentiments toward the British monarchy and a push for a republic, where leadership is elected rather than inherited. By the 1870s, the trends shifted again. Jewelry became more simplistic, with women wearing less ornamentation, saving it for special occasions. Stones were appreciated for their beauty rather than as a mark of wealth. When Queen Victoria passed on January 22, 1901, her 63-year reign came to an end, marking the close of an era.


Popular Stones and Techniques


During the Victorian era, intricately designed cannets and filigree jewelry became fashionable due to an ongoing scarcity of precious gemstones. Elaborate metalwork, utilizing silver, gold, and colored gold, was widely used. Micro mosaics, cameo carvings, and seed pearls made a significant resurgence. The symbolic imagery of serpents, along with the use of rose gold and ivory, gained popularity.


A revived interest in the power of gemstones blended with a nostalgic longing for the past resulted in increasingly elaborate jewelry designs. This period also marked the introduction of jewelry made with less than 18K gold. Sentimental pieces that spelled words using the initials of various stones (e.g., "Dearest" created with diamond, emerald, amethyst, ruby, emerald, sapphire, topaz) became widely loved.


Conclusion: The Legacy of Jewelry Through Time


The history of jewelry is as complex and fascinating as art itself. Each era, from the Rococo to the Victorian period, contributed distinct styles and techniques that reflect the cultural and social changes of their time. Understanding these transitions not only highlights the artistry involved but also underscores the evolving nature of personal adornment. It opens up a dialogue about how we can appreciate and draw inspiration from the past in today's jewelry designs.


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