The Evolution of Jewelry Styles: 1920-Today
- From the Vault Jewelers
- 7 days ago
- 5 min read
Art Deco (1920s-1940s)
Tremulous and Changing Times
Important events:
1914-1918- World War 1
1920-1933- Prohibition
1929- 1939- The Great Depression
1939-1945- World War 2
The term “Art Deco” comes from the Exposition International des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes, held in Paris in 1925, where art, industry, and jewelry were emphasised. The Great War (WW1) had just ended, and there was more international communications than ever. People were hopeful, looking ahead, and there was a general shift toward modernity and global awareness, and reconstruction of post-war Europe.
Color was in full force and loose, short fashion was all in to party in the roaring 20s. Flappers wore long strands of pearls, tassel earrings, and jewelry with strong color contrasts that stood out on the dance floor. Jewelry was part of the expression of liberation, jazz, and a rejection of the pre-war rigidity.
Popular Stones and Techniques
Jewelry inspirations began coming from Africa, South America, Asia, and styles included cubism and fauvism. The influence of ancient Egyptian motifs, tribal patterns, and Asian lacquer techniques was also incorporated. Art Deco jewelry often used onyx, jade, coral, and enamel alongside diamonds, adding layers of contrast and excitement. With the invisible setting just created, geometric shapes, clean lines, and symmetry replaced the flowing nature themes of the art nouveau style prior. The invisible setting allowed gemstones to appear as though they were floating, without visible metal prongs, making the designs sleeker.
Retro/Mid Century jewelry (1940s–1960s)
Welcome to contemporary history!
Important events
1939–1945 – WW2
1945-1991-Cold War
1953- Queen Elizabeth Crowned
1957-1969- Space race
1963; 1965; 1968- JFK, Malcolm X, and MLK Jr. assassinations
The 40s, 50s, and 60s saw large social reform and civil rights movements. Women, after two rounds of serving the home front, entered the workforce more regularly, and fashion reflected that: Comfortable boots, padded shoulders, and an overall lean towards masculine dress. But brooches, chunky jewelry, and accessories like charm bracelets and cocktail rings allowed personal expression to shine through even structured clothing. Military influence also showed up in designs—eagle pins, victory brooches, and patriotic themes were popular.
Plastics and synthetic stones were also used more, especially during wartime shortages. The end of the Second World War led to a quick reaction in fashion: right colors, bold designs, fine materials, and a reflection of the economic boom post-war. Jewelry was big, often oversized, and optimistic. Hollywood also had a huge influence. Celebrities like Marilyn Monroe, Elizabeth Taylor, and Audrey Hepburn made diamond and pearl jewelry aspirational symbols of success and beauty. Consumerism was at its peak. Shopping became a cultural activity, and jewelry was both status and sentiment.
Popular Stones and Techniques
Jewelry makers increased the amount of copper in gold pieces to use the real gold to pay for the war. This is why many gold pieces from the retro era have an almost rose gold tone to them that is a staple of the era. The rose hue became desirable and associated with mid-century warmth and glamour.
“By 1965, 80% of American brides wore a diamond engagement ring.”-levysfinejewelry
The phrase, “A diamond is forever,” (1948) created to market diamond conglomerate De Beer, was wildly successful at making the diamond the go-to stone for engagement rings and jewelry. The marketing campaign connected diamonds with eternal love, creating not just demand but emotional attachment. This marked a turning point in how jewelry was viewed—not just fashion, but romance and legacy.
Modern Jewelry (1970s to Now)
Modern Day Bling
Important events
1969- Stonewall riots
1972- Watergate
1989- Burlin wall torn down
1990-1901- First Persian Gulf War
1997- Princess Diana's Death
2001 -2011- 9/11 and Second Persian Gulf War
2007- Apple announces the first iPhone
2008- Global Recession
The 1970s were a time of freedom, rebellion, and self-expression, and jewelry followed suit. The social and political landscape was changing rapidly—second-wave feminism, environmental awareness, and anti-war protests were everywhere. People were turning away from traditional norms, and this showed in what they wore. Jewelry became eclectic. Natural materials like wood, shell, turquoise, and leather were popular, and there was a strong return to handmade, bohemian styles.
The 1980s came in with neon colors, sharp power suits, and bold makeup matched by equally bold jewelry. Think oversized earrings, massive gold chains, nameplate necklaces, and shoulder-grazing dangles. The rise of television, pop stars like Madonna and Prince, and MTV made fashion more visual than ever. Costume jewelry exploded in popularity- plastic, rhinestones, and acrylic made it possible for anyone to look glamorous.
1990s, things took a turn toward minimalism. The rise of grunge and street style made chokers, tiny studs, and leather cuffs fashionable. Jewelry wasn’t about opulence- it was about attitude. Piercings became more mainstream, and body jewelry like eyebrow rings, nose studs, and belly rings were seen on celebrities and teens alike. Silver replaced gold as the go-to metal, with designers focusing on clean, modern shapes.
The early 2000s brought the rise of personalization: jewelry with initials, birthstones, or even names became popular again. Ethical and sustainable jewelry started gaining ground. Shoppers wanted transparency—where were the gems sourced? Was the gold recycled? Lab-grown diamonds entered the scene and gained popularity for being both ethical and budget-friendly. Minimalism also reigned again, and so did vintage and heirloom pieces, with people valuing history and story in their accessories.
Now, in the 2020s, jewelry is about personal meaning and diverse expression. The Internet and social media mean trends move fast, and styles are more varied than ever. Some wear vintage gold chains and antique lockets, others wear bold resin earrings or rings made from recycled ocean plastic. Engagement rings aren’t just diamonds anymore- people choose sapphires, emeralds, salt-and-pepper diamonds, or no stones at all. Technology is also merging with jewelry- smart rings, fitness tracking bracelets. Jewelry is not just decoration- it's expression, function, sustainability, and culture all at once.
Sources
Art Deco Era Jewelry – Antique Jewelry University. (n.d.). https://www.langantiques.com/university/art-deco-jewelry/
Collins, S. (2024, December 10). A guide to Art deco jewellery. The Antique Jewellery Company. https://www.antiquejewellerycompany.com/a-guide-to-art-deco-jewellery/
Hoyne, E. (2025, May 31). Modern jewellery - the 1960s onwards. Carus Jewellery. https://carusjewellery.com/modern-jewellery-1960s-onwards/
Jewelry, L. F. (2018a, May 30). Retro/Mid-Century - jewelry and fashion styles of the 1940s-50s. Levys Fine Jewelry. https://levysfinejewelry.com/pages/retro Jewelry, L. F. (2018b, May 31). Modernist - jewelry and fashion styles of the 1960s-70s. Levys Fine Jewelry. https://levysfinejewelry.com/pages/modernist
Von Hirdler, J. (2024, September 7). Mid-Century jewelry: modernist glamour of the 1950s. Filigree Jewelers. https://filigreejewelers.com/blogs/articles/mid-century-jewelry-modernist-glamour-of-the-1950s
Vintage and antique jewelry periods. (n.d.). Global Gemology & Appraisals - Premier Jewelry Valuation Services. https://www.globalgemology.com/jewelry-periods.html#/
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