The Evolution of Jewelry: Art Deco to Modern Day

The Art Deco Era (1920s-1940s)

Tremulous and Changing Times

Important Events:

• 1914-1918: World War 1

• 1920-1933: Prohibition

• 1929-1939: The Great Depression

• 1939-1945: World War 2

  
  

The term “Art Deco” derives from the Exposition International des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes, held in Paris in 1925, where art, industry, and jewelry were emphasized. With the end of WW1, the world opened up. People were optimistic. There was a clear shift towards modernity. The reconstruction of post-war Europe inspired new ideas.

Color burst onto the scene, and fashion became looser and shorter. The 1920s were a time for celebration. Flappers wore long strands of pearls, tassel earrings, and jewelry with strong contrasts. This jewelry symbolized freedom, jazz, and a break away from pre-war rigidity.

Art Deco Platinum Ruby & Diamond Zig Zag Ring- antique jewellery company

Vibrant Inspirations

The influences on jewelry came from Africa, South America, and Asia. Artists drew from cubism and fauvism. The motifs of ancient Egypt, along with tribal patterns, found their way into the designs. Onyx, jade, coral, and enamel became popular alongside diamonds. These gemstones provided layers of contrast.

One significant innovation was the invisible setting. This technique allowed gemstones to appear as if they were floating in the design. Gone were the visible metal prongs. Instead, geometric shapes, clean lines, and symmetry reigned. This aesthetic clearly distinguished Art Deco pieces from their predecessors.

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Retro and Mid-Century Jewelry (1940s–1960s)

Welcome to Contemporary History!

Important Events:

• 1939–1945: World War 2

• 1945-1991: Cold War

• 1953: Queen Elizabeth Crowned

• 1957-1969: Space Race

• 1963; 1965; 1968: Assassinations of JFK, Malcolm X, and MLK Jr.

  
  

The 40s, 50s, and 60s transformed society. Large social and civil rights movements emerged. Women frequently entered the workforce after serving on the home front during the wars. Fashion mirrored these changes: comfortable boots and padded shoulders became common.

However, personal expression shone through in accessories like chunky jewelry, charm bracelets, and cocktail rings. Military themes influenced design, with popular items including eagle pins and victory brooches.

During wartime shortages, jewelry makers turned to plastics and synthetic stones. Post-war fashion quickly adapted, embracing vibrant colors, bold designs, and quality materials. The economic boom led to oversized, optimistic jewelry. Hollywood icons like Marilyn Monroe and Audrey Hepburn made diamond and pearl jewelry symbols of success.

French 18ct Gold 1950s Bracelet with Flower Motifs set with Cabochon Rubies & Diamonds- antique jewellery company

Rose Gold and Timeless Ads

The increasing amount of copper in gold pieces was a reaction to wartime needs. Many gold pieces from this era sport a rose gold hue. This warm tone became a staple, evoking mid-century glamour.

The phrase “A diamond is forever,” coined in 1948, transformed how society viewed diamonds, especially for engagement rings. This successful marketing connected diamonds with eternal love, fostering both demand and emotional attachment. It marked a significant shift in jewelry perception—from mere fashion to symbols of romance and legacy.

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Modern Jewelry (1970s to Now)

The Era of Personal Meaning

Important Events:

• 1969: Stonewall Riots

• 1972: Watergate Scandal

• 1989: Berlin Wall Torn Down

• 1990-1991: First Persian Gulf War

• 1997: Princess Diana's Death

• 2001-2011: 9/11 and Second Persian Gulf War

• 2007: Apple Launches First iPhone

• 2008: Global Recession

  
  

The 1970s brought a wave of freedom, rebellion, and self-expression to the jewelry world. With rising second-wave feminism, environmental movements, and anti-war protests, traditional norms began to fade. Jewelry became more eclectic. Natural materials like wood, shell, turquoise, and leather gained popularity.

In the 1980s, vibrant neon colors embraced the fashion scene. Power suits complemented bold earrings and massive chains. With the rise of television and artists like Madonna and Prince, costume jewelry flourished. Made with plastic and rhinestones, it offered glamour to the masses.

The 1990s etched a new path towards minimalism. Grunge and street styles led to chokers and tiny studs becoming fashionable. Jewelry veered away from opulence and leaned into personal attitude. Silver replaced gold as the favored metal, with a focus on modern forms.

In the early 2000s, jewelry took on new meanings. Personalization flourished. Pieces adorned with initials, birthstones, or names became all the rage. Today, ethical and sustainable jewelry trends gain traction. Shoppers are more concerned with sourcing materials and sustainability. As a result, lab-grown diamonds became popular for being budget-friendly and ethical. Vintage pieces also climbed in value.

Pink Diamond Lab Ring with halo ring

Now, in the 2020s, the landscape is rich with diverse styles. The Internet and social media drive rapid changes in trends. Vintage gold chains may find their way into an outfit next to bold resin earrings. Engagement rings feature sapphires, emeralds, or even no stones. Technology and jewelry intertwine, merging aesthetics with function, sustainability, and culture seamlessly.

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Sources

Art Deco Era Jewelry – Antique Jewelry University. (n.d.). https://www.langantiques.com/university/art-deco-jewelry/

Collins, S. (2024, December 10). A guide to Art Deco jewellery. The Antique Jewellery Company. https://www.antiquejewellerycompany.com/a-guide-to-art-deco-jewellery/

Hoyne, E. (2025, May 31). Modern jewellery - the 1960s onwards. Carus Jewellery. https://carusjewellery.com/modern-jewellery-1960s-onwards/

Jewelry, L. F. (2018a, May 30). Retro/Mid-Century - jewelry and fashion styles of the 1940s-50s. Levys Fine Jewelry. https://levysfinejewelry.com/pages/retro

Jewelry, L. F. (2018b, May 31). Modernist - jewelry and fashion styles of the 1960s-70s. Levys Fine Jewelry. https://levysfinejewelry.com/pages/modernist

Von Hirdler, J. (2024, September 7). Mid-Century jewelry: modernist glamour of the 1950s. Filigree Jewelers. https://filigreejewelers.com/blogs/articles/mid-century-jewelry-modernist-glamour-of-the-1950s

Vintage and antique jewelry periods. (n.d.). Global Gemology & Appraisals - Premier Jewelry Valuation Services. https://www.globalgemology.com/jewelry-periods.html#/